
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Quiz Night #2

Thursday, March 4, 2010
South African Roads and Visas, aka hell
I am fully convinced, now, that some people will perish in the lead up to the world cup. It's not as you would think—that people will fall prey to crime and/or violent, nationalistic fanaticism—it comes down to the simple problem of South African conceptions of car speed and consular matters.
Car speed: On my way out of Cape Town today I witnessed two very near traffic disasters. The first, involved a closing of lanes that the driver was alerted to only 10 feet beforehand. No signs had been erected to warn the driver that the 3-lane, major highway was pairing down to two

lanes. There was a man waving a red traffic flag, but by the time you caught sight of him, you were already pretty much in your neighbors lane. Screeches all around, but miraculously, especially given the state of most vehicles here, the people managed to accommodate this spontaneous lane shift and slam to a stop.
Relieved to have missed this close call, the cars were chugging along again, at a comfortable cruising speed, very aware of the red cones and the closed lane on the right, when the screech of burning rubber filled the air once again. Immediately in front, the bulldozer that had been working in the closed off-lane, decided to take off across the two open lanes of traffic, (that were almost up to full speed at that point.) The bulldozer was literally jackknifed across these lanes, just watching as the traffic splayed to avoid hitting his giant digging machine.
The funniest thing about this situation was you look at the guys on the side of the road, flabbergasted, and they look back at you with a look of utter blankness, unable to believe that there could be anything wrong with the way that they are sagely directing traffic. And in some ways that is probably true, they really don't understand where their automotive choreography has turned disastrous.

Over the large highways in the country, there are major over-crossings for pedestrians contained by a metal fencing all the way around. People continually wonder why, if these safe, convenient modes of crossing exist, you still see many people chancing their luck to run across 6 busy lanes of traffic. I used to balk at the people's fool-hardy irrationality until I heard a dual explanation that made me blush at my prior judgement. First, many of these bridges are patrolled by thugs, and just like your proverbial troll on the bridge, they exact high tolls for crossing. Secondly, and more pertinent to my recent experience, many of these people have never, ever ridden in a motor vehicle. They know that a vehicle goes faster than they can run, but they just can’t quite conceptualize the magnitude of the speed increase. So when they see cars barreling down the highway, they think that the mechanical boxes can stop as easily and as quickly as a human running at full speed.
This, I would say, is part of the explanation for the flagrant lack of preplanning for the road construction. It is quite possible that some of the guys, namely the guys in charge of sporting the flags, don’t fully comprehend the distance needed for a car to come to a full stop. As the ultimate manifestation of this incomprehensibly lax attitude, as I was leaving the work zone, I saw one of the other flag guys… asleep, under the bridge, with his warning signal draped languidly over his stomach. Great safety precaution he is!

First off, when you walk into the South African Home Affairs office, you are dealing with a real diaspora. The guy in front of me was from Angola, in back of me from India, and then all around were those hailing from African countries as far north as Ethiopia and as far west as Ghana. Like I said, the people were all nice, but the system was hopeless. There were no tracking systems, no queues, and no numbers, so the only way to keep your spot in line was to shimmy your way up the seats in a sort of consular musical chairs. It was quite comical; every time someone went up to be served, 4 whole rows of people would simultaneously rise up and slide over one seat to assume their new waiting position.
Despite inefficiencies and inconveniences, it all worked out. After a full three hours of seat-shifting my way to the front, I was finally able to leave with my receipt in hand. As I was leaving this place of mayhem, the one thought that kept occurring to me was-- Thank God I didn’t go through here when my visa was expired. Everyone was very pleasant, but I certainly wouldn’t have wanted to be on the wrong side of that line, the slightly dilapidated room seemed as if it could have had any number of dicey containment cells branching from it...Tuesday, March 2, 2010
"Cool" Wine Tasting Group





Monday, March 1, 2010
Constantia Fresh

Setting the standard of what an industry show should be, Constantia Fresh is, undoubtedly, the coolest wine show that I have ever attended. Set on the lawns of Buitenverwachting, (one of South Africa's most famous wine estates, located in the middle of Constantia,) it was a cool, casual event that showcased the best of South Africa's Sauvignon Blanc to the best of South Africa's Sauvignon Blanc.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Lost in Elgin
I had been invited to come to the Wallis’ farm for a braai because they had two English medical students visiting. Knowing how difficult finding these farms at night can be, I received double, even triple playbacks of the turn by turn directions. Past Galilelo then Pink Lady then it’s the right turn to Carmel farm…. I surprisingly knew all the markers they were referring to, and I was fairly confident that this could be my one triumph in valley navigation.
So, following the directions, I turned at Carmel and headed up the road to this fantastic, hacienda style house. There were big intricately wrought iron gates and two giant dogs contained there-in that announced my arrival. Next thing I know, a man with a snow white pony tail comes to the gate—certainly not my desired host, Paul Wallis, who is a big, jovial, Irish farmer. I tried to ask him about the Wallis’ but there was a thick accent impeding our conversation. Curious about the lilt in his voice, I asked where he was from and he responded, "Italia, Roma." I was quite surprised by this response, I was pretty sure that I would have heard about an Italian living in the valley, especially one that lived only 4 or 5 farms away. I would have thought this nationalistic anomaly would warrant some sort of gossip...

And when I say he was Italian, he was REALLY Italian. In typical, shifty, Italian fashion, the first thing he said to me was “ooo…. American accent. So sexy on a women.” Then, after a few moments of chatting, he politely told me he had to go because he had a pot of pasta cooking on the stove. I was next expecting him to jump in his ferrari, flip some pizza dough, and call out to some guy named Mario to shine his italian leather loafers. He made me promise to come back for a cappucino, which, if his coffee is anywhere as strong as his accent, is a pretty good idea. Great to know stock characters abound in this valley: first, Aussie Bob, and now, Italiano Franco.
Having left little Italy, I headed to the next entrance, also Carmel. My confidence dwindled quickly, though, when I saw the main road fork into three, equally plausible routes. Trying my luck, I choose the far left until I arrived at a large white house. Once again, a troop of dogs alerted the house-owners to my arrival, and once again a man I'd never seen emerged with a quizzical look on his face. (Not many farms get random 8pm visits...) Luckily, he said that I was almost in the right place, and that the Wallises were his next-door neighbors. So, I pulled my 10th U-ey of the night and headed back down the middle path. The first place I saw, though, had a closed gate and looked to be empty. Thinking I was wrong, again, I flipped another 3 point turn and descended past this house into orchards. Much to my chagrin, the neighbor heard my aimless driving and came to fetch me on his 4x4. (Another advantage to being in the country- it's quiet enough for people to hear you when you get ridiculously lost.) So, led by my knight on a 4x4, I was literally taken up to the gate and led to the very entrance of the house.
While farm navigation at night is clearly not my forté, the confusion is definitely worth the crazy introductions and interactions.
Oh, and as far as the braai goes, the food was amazing, but the Englishman was an infuriating, irritating bit of pomposity. As only a Brit can do, he carried on for most of the dinner alternating between stories of his greatness, admiration for the UK, and mockery of the US. He literally said, the problem with America is that it thinks what happened 60 or 100 years ago is history. I responded that the problem with the UK is their history stops 234 years ago, when they were still a victorious nation. I, too, would want to forget the last 100 years of power-slippage if I were a British "historian;" it's what we call "selective-memory."
Monday, February 22, 2010
Grape Picking
To begin, grape picking is infinitely more glamorous than plum picking. Unlike with plums, there are no picker "purses" that you have to awkwardly lug around as the harvest weight pulls you down. Instead of having to sling the nylon picking satchel, in the vineyard you simply move a little crate from stalk to stalk. Invigorated with the uniqueness of the grape harvest, I was to undergo an evolutionary initiation into the world of the pickers. On the first day, I was the complete oddity in the vines, the temporary fixture that fascinated and burdened the workers in equal measure. The pickers felt they had to take care of me, and, for every stalk I approached, there was one person who proceeded me, thinning the vine foliage to reveal the clusters beneath; one or two across from me supporting my shears; and one who followed me, moving my crate along the vines. I felt like the silly molly-coddled American who wants to "pick" but doesn't want to actually break a sweat. By the second day, my entourage had been cut in 1/3 and though I still had someone who moved my crate when it was full, I was responsible for the slow transport of the

Sunday, February 14, 2010
Bob Watch #5: Cupid's Walking Shoes
As a wizened and weathered traveler, Bob scoffs at the idea of Romance. Roses and ponies are the trinkets of the more sedentary, but for the minimalist Aussie, only the necessary makes the journey. Thusly, it was not too surprising that when I brought up Valentines Day on Thursday, Bob snorted and made some comment about the commercialized waste of this "business holiday."
While I understand his view of this Cadbury/Hallmark day, this conception doesn't quite fly when you have a little lady sitting at home-- which Bob does. I have waited to divulge this detail of Bob's life until there was an equally romantic story to couch it in, but good 'ol Aussie Bob is dating our closest farm neighbor, a woman aptly named Bobby. Bobby lives right above our farm, in a small cottage, literally a herculean stones throw from Bob’s own house. A divorcé, she moved into the valley only about a year ago and Bob and her have been dating ever since. Every night, at about 6 pm on the dot, we hear Bob’s truck sidling up the pot-marked dirt road to the top of the hill where Bobby lives. Once there, Bobby fixes a dinner for the two of them, which they share until about 9 pm, at which point we hear Bob's truck retracing it's tracks to his cottage down below.
Though the actual state of their relationship is unknown to me-- sometimes there are substantial lapses in the nightly, dinner routine-- I was fairly confident that Bobby did not share Bob’s blasé Valentines sentiments. So, for about 20 minutes after Bob's Valentines comments, I prodded, nudged and lectured Bob on his call to duty for this particular holiday. I informed him that, though he may see Valentines as fruitless and frilly, she certainly didn’t, and it was his prerogative to use this day to show her that he cared.
I was pretty sure that my lecturing had fallen on deaf ears. Though Bob is a softy, he is also first and foremost the stoic, worldly Aussie. So, imagine my surprise when I walked into the office on Friday to hear Bob mumbling under his breath something about Valentines Day.
When I asked Bob what he was talking about, he sheepishly replied that he was booking two spots for the romantic, four-course Valentines lunch that we are having at Highlands. I ran up, gave him a huge hug, and told him that he was a regular Valentines Don Juan.
That night, Bobby also came over for summer sundowners. Bob was not only showered, with slicked back hair, but he had put on a shirt without holes, (something truly rare for Bob,) and jeans (which I didn't even know he owned.) In other words, in Bob speak, he had brought out the whole shebang. My conclusion: the romantic in Bob has finally emerged and Cupid has hung up his walking shoes.
